Forming a Comprehensive Natural Deworming Regimen: Integrated Parasite Management

It’s almost spring! You know what that means … worm season! Wet and warm weather brings all kinds of parasites into the systems of our goats. It’s our job to do our best to keep our goats happy, healthy, and free from severe parasite loads!

Let’s start with the basics! Aside from preventative measures, management, or even chemical deworming, what can YOU do to stay on top of things?

Parasites are ubiquitous. Your goats will always have some level of the common ones, but the goal is not eradication, it’s coexistence. If there comes a point where parasites overtake your goat, you are responsible for restoring the balance.

You can start by being an active owner. What this means is that you check your goats’ FAMACHA scores on a weekly basis, you observe and feel their body condition for signs of weight loss, you get incredibly comfortable with ‘staring at poop’ (okay, just learn what’s normal and what ISN’T!), and you engage in routine fecal testing to keep an eye on what’s going on inside, on a quantitative and qualitative level.

This post is not on the entirety of Integrated Parasite Management, and as of this update in 2025, that will be a separate, upcoming file/document. That will be far more detailed, and will include information regarding chemical deworming as well. This post is intended to start you off on the right foot, understanding how broad and fascinating parasite management truly is. Some starting ideas and general guidelines for building a healthy herd using natural and integrated measures are included.

A frequently asked question on deworming:

Natural deworming is just one facet of Integrated Parasite Management. My preference is to consider natural “dewormers” more as supportive “supplements.” If we can equip a goat’s body to have greater resistance and resilience by using these measures, which support the immune system, lead to a less hospitable environment for the worms, and boost the goats in a variety of ways, we can reduce the overall need for chemical deworming.

You may be wondering what I mean when I say “natural methods.” I refrain from using the term “herbal methods,” as herb mixes are not what I use exclusively.

I have formed a complex regimen, it is multi-pronged, attacking parasites from all angles.

Step 1. Herbal Mixes

(ALL HERB MIXES MENTIONED ARE NOT PRESCRIBED, PROFESSIONALLY RECOMMENDED, OR SUGGESTED TO BE A “TREATMENT” OR CURE FOR ANY ISSUES AND AILMENTS)

I prefer to use pre-made herbal blends. There are many brands of herbs that are out there to purchase, and they all have a different range in effectiveness level. I use Fir Meadow LLC’s GI Soother & DWA. GI Soother (while I also use this for digestive support) is something that I like to use for my goats to target gastrointestinal parasites such as Haemonchus Contortus (Barber Pole worm) and Coccidia, who have shown in vitro and in vivo responses that indicate a physiological disdain for hot herbs such as clove and cinnamon. I use these two separate formulas, GI Soother & DWA, simultaneously. I also enjoy that they are each individualized mixes, so I can provide further support with one of them on its own if I believe there is a particular worm in question. We live in an area with a large population of Barber Pole worm, and so I tend to use GI Soother more often than DWA.

Another recipe which I use often (especially if I want a fresher punch of the same GI Soother power) is my GI Rescue formula. I discuss this in my coccidia prevention post as well. This recipe is available, along with many other awesome DIY recipes, in my Herbal Remedies Ebook.

Step 2. Fresh Supplements 

One thing that always bothers me about herbal mixes, is that the herbs are dried and powdered which means they may have lost potency or even oxidized. They still work, of course, but I really enjoy using fresh herbs and fresh foods to deworm my goats. I adore fresh thyme for routine deworming. A few sprigs daily also make a delicious treat for your goats! Pumpkin seeds also make a wonderful addition to a deworming regimen. Oregano is another good herb to add. Oak leaves and other goat-safe, high-tannin forages (such as Sericea Lespedeza) also make good additions! There are many other plants and herbs that act as natural dewormers, and some you can grow in your backyard! This spring we are going to be planting lots of goat-friendly and health supporting herbs and plants in our gardens! Yes, I know it is most goat owners’ goal to keep the goats OUT of the garden, but I’m taking a whole new approach … a goat garden! Stay tuned for more posts on what we will be growing, and how we will use it to boost our goats’ health! In the meantime, have a look at some ingredient lists for herbal goat dewormers, and see if you can grow any of the plants fresh in your own garden! 

Step 3. Essential Oils

I use high quality, food-grade essential oils (EOs) as a very large part of my deworming regimen. In tough worm seasons, essential oils have been a wonderful boost to my herbal mixes. Before getting started with EOs, remember that using high quality oils is really important! I recommend DoTerra brand for internal use in goats. I have no affiliation with this company, and many people also like Young Living and Plant Therapy. In addition, some oils cannot be used for pregnant animals, so even if there is no note of “NOT for pregnant animals!!” I recommend reaching out to confirm if your essential oil plan is safe for them before dosing. Essential oils are also very strong, so be sure to dilute them. When administering oils, I recommend mixing them with 2-3cc of olive oil in a small syringe to be carefully drenched.

For routine deworming, I use a blend of Wild Orange, DigestZen (a DoTerra proprietary blend), Oregano, Lemongrass and Clove (NOT for pregnant animals!!). I will occasionally add Lemon essential oil, especially when dealing with barberpole worms, as it seems to really help with anemia.

If you struggle with coccidia, the addition of Cinnamon (not for pregnant goats) may help you. OnGuard from DoTerra, or Thieves from Young Living, are also good options. Remember to avoid formulas with clove and cinnamon in pregnant goats.

There are other oils that may aid in treatments for specific parasites, if you struggle with a particular one, please send me a message or leave a comment below.

The dosing that I use is 1 drop of each oil, mixed into 2-3cc olive oil, once a week for maintenance/prevention. If doing a “treatment protocol,” I will do the oils once a day for 3 days straight, then wait 4 days, and then repeat again for 3 days. The “3 days on, 4 days off” method is also something I use consistently in a particularly bad worm season.

UPDATE 2025: In recent years, people have been inspired by my EO regimen and used it similarly, but in greater quantities or frequencies. What I have written, years ago, still stands. I will not exceed the dosages listed in this blog post. Occasionally, I have seen adverse digestive effects (mostly due to rumen microbiota disruption) with some more extreme (multiple times daily) dosing. If you choose to exceed my preferred use, do so with an abundance of caution at your own risk.

Sometimes all the other “prongs” of my deworming technique work well enough without essential oils. I only recommend adding essential oils if you are really struggling with parasites. You can, if needed, start goats on EOs at 4 weeks of age, but I prefer to wait until weaning.

Step 4. Garlic, Garlic, and MORE GARLIC!

Garlic is absolutely my favorite overall supplement! Good ‘ol fresh garlic cloves are wonderful for goats! Not only does garlic help with internal parasites, but since we started our goats on a daily garlic regimen, their immune systems have been really strong, and our previous fly and tick problems are no more! Hooray for garlic! You can read about how we feed garlic, and much more, in our post, Using Garlic to Improve Herd Health!

You can also “super-charge” your garlic feeding by using Garlic Barrier, a concentrated form of garlic.

Step 5. Proper Management 

This may sound obvious, but one of the most important things to keep parasites at bay in your herd is to keep your goats’ living areas in tip-top shape! Make sure water, feed, and hay, are elevated off the ground, and kept sanitary. Elevating feed is extremely important. Unfortunately, unlike humans, goats like to eat where they poop! This continues the cruel cycle of worm larvae! Goats with worms will poop in pastures or around feed, then another grazing goat eats grass or feed tainted with the fecal matter, and then they ingest the worms/larvae/eggs all over again. Here is a VERY simple visual of this cycle:

Pasture rotation is often helpful to prevent parasites. Your rotation program may be as simple as rotating often enough to prevent manure buildup and overgrazing, or it may be “intensive,” moving animals every 3-7 days and allowing each pasture section to rest for 30 days before the animals cycle back to it. Cross-species grazing with cattle, horses, and chickens, and may also help aid in parasite management. It is also recommended to keep grass cut/grazed no shorter than 6”. Worm larvae is usually on the lower portions of grass stalks, so grazing higher beyond that point may reduce reinfection occurrences. Moisture often allows larvae to proliferate and migrate more easily, and wet dewey grass is usually a more common place to find slugs and snails (hosts for lungworm and liver flukes), so sometimes I recommend keeping goats off of pasture (if possible) when wet and rainy.

Step 6. Adequate Mineral Intakes

Mineral deficiencies, specifically in copper, can be a main factor in parasite-susceptible goats. Make sure your goats are covered in the mineral criteria, and that may be one of the best ways to prevent parasites in your herd! My blog post Goat Minerals 101 can help you identify copper deficient goats. Conduct a mineral analysis (by observation and calculations), and use this to try and determine where your minerals could be (possibly) lacking. Take into account all feed, supplements, and water sources. If you are unsure how to conduct a basic mineral analysis, feel free to send an email or message on social media, and I would be happy to chat with you and explain to the best of my knowledge how it works! Copper Boluses (Copper Oxide Wire Particles) have been studied in their ability to fight off Haemonchus, but the results are still questionable.

Step 7. Proper Nutrition and a Healthy Rumen

This is such a vital step! A healthy goat is a goat with an immune system that is able to fight off parasite loads and live with a reasonable amount of parasites coexisting in the entire body. You will never rid your goats completely of parasites. The goal is to keep loads manageable. Having a healthy goat, particularly with a strong rumen, is highly important when it comes to parasite resistance. See my post on goat diets by clicking HERE. If you have any doubts as to how your goats’ rumens are functioning and how strong their immune systems are, please contact me! High protein diets often help more parasite-susceptible goats to resist severe loads, but a balanced diet overall is required to keep any goat healthy.

Step 8. Genetics – BREED “UP!”

A short and sweet note on this. Do not breed the doe who is suffering from worms each season. Do not use the herdsire that you’ve had to chemically deworm 3x in one year. Genetics play a fascinating role in parasite management. Breed your strongest goats. Breed for improvement. Breed UP!

All in All…

With natural measures, it’s all about your routine. Be consistent, and regularly keep up with the responsibility of keeping your goats strong!

DISCLAIMER: I am not a vet, nor am I a licensed professional. I am in no way a “goat expert” and my opinions are only that of personal experiences, and my insights shared are not medical treatment suggestions, care suggestions, or any directions for raising goats at all. I am simply sharing my own personal opinions. Any and all changes to your goats’ health regimen, care, etc. should be approved by a veterinary professional or licensed professional. I also believe that every goat owner has their own way of doing things, so just as my opinions are my own, and cannot apply to anyone else, your opinions are also regarding your individual goats, and I welcome you to share them in a kind, constructive manner. Disclosure: This post may contain Amazon Affiliate Links, from which I will earn a commission.